Living in Triana, Seville: the district across the river
Living in Triana, Seville: ceramics, flamenco, the market and Calle Betis by the river. What works, what does not and three scored addresses.
Contents 10 sections
What the district is like
Triana lies on the west bank of the Guadalquivir, facing the historic centre. Its people consider it a town of its own and say they are "going to Seville" when they cross the bridge.
It is the district of potters, sailors and flamenco. The ceramic workshops are still open, the market by the bridge sells fish and ham, and Calle Betis along the river is a row of bars looking across at the Giralda.
On foot
The main street, San Jacinto, is pedestrian and leads from the bridge into the middle of the district. Along it and around it there is everything: shops, cafes, pharmacies, schools, churches. The market sits by the river.
You walk to the cathedral and the centre over the bridge. At the southern edge is a station of the only metro line. Seville is flat and has cycle lanes everywhere. The green space is the riverside walk and the gardens of La Cartuja to the north.
What we measured
The addresses are on Calle San Jacinto, on Calle Betis by the river, and on Calle Pureza, which runs parallel to it.
| Address | Score | Groceries | Station or stop | School | Park | Noise and air |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Calle San Jacinto, 50, Seville | 80.5 | 2 min | 9 minPlaza de Cuba | 3 min | 7 min | −9.6 |
| Calle Betis, 30, Seville | 81.4 | 5 min | 9 minPlaza de Cuba | 4 min | 8 min | −6.1 |
| Calle Pureza, 50-52, Seville | 82.3 | 5 min | 9 minPlaza de Cuba | 4 min | 7 min | −6.1 |
Map numbers match the table rows. Use the plus button to zoom in.
By the river there is more water nearby and more visitors; on San Jacinto there are more shops. How the score works sets out how each is counted.
Who it suits
- Newcomers who want a real Sevillian neighbourhood.
- Young professionals.
- Families who value a school and a market next door.
What it costs you
Rents are rising. By the bridge and on Betis there are many tourists. The houses are old and poorly protected from the heat, which in Seville is a serious matter. Residents mention the noise during Holy Week and the July Velá festival.
The housing
Houses of two to four storeys with tiled patios. A few old corrales de vecinos, shared courtyard tenements, survive. Towards Los Remedios there are blocks from the middle of the last century.
What to check
Check the air conditioning first, and which way the flat faces. A top floor under the roof is an oven in summer. Ask whether processions pass along the street.
Winter and summer
Winter is mild and sunny. From June to September nobody goes out by day unless they must, and life starts after sunset.
Without a car
Yes: the centre is just over the bridge, and there is the metro, a public bike scheme and cycle lanes.
Neighbours
To the south is Los Remedios, quiet and well off. Across the river, the old town.